(Why laminate the boards, you say? 1/4" probably would have been fine for this blade, you say. Yeah, you're probably right, but let me tell you a little story: A long time ago, I made Zuko's double sword out of MDF. It just so happened that each blade was a 1/4" layer of MDF. Well, MDF has no grain, which is what gives wood it's flexibility and strength. MDF has a certain amount of flex, but will only take so much force. So our Zuko, my son, gets out on stage first and whirls around (as planned), separating and swinging both blades. Between the whirl and the swing, a leeeettle too much force was applied to one blade. Our friend described it thusly: "As he separated the swords, there was an excited gasp from the crowd, and then it snapped, and the gasp turned into soft sigh of anguish." Mine anguish was more internal. So yeah, when you laminate materials, it creates a flexible, stronger material. Just make sure that your glue is spread over the entire surface, or when you go to cut or sand the bevels of your sword's edge in, you may have gaps that will need filling! Moving on)
The blade portion of the main layer was then cut out with a band saw. The band saw is spectacular at cutting long, straight, or widely curved line, and it will go through your MDF like butter if your blade is sharp, so be steady and careful.
The rest of the sword consists of eight more individual layers. The entire hilt section (shown in the second photo above) was cut out twice in 1/4" pieces to fill it out and give body to the grip. Then the crossguard and the pommel each got two layers cut from 1/8" MDF to provide the rim. Finally, two more pieces were cut from 1/8" MDF to make a setting for a gem that would fit on that roundish, triangle portion at the center of the crossguard.
Once you've got your wire twisted you can begin the wrapping process. I used furniture tacks to anchor the ends of my wire. Your starting point is the thinnest portion of the gip, workig towards the thickest. This will cause the wire to push downwards, keeping it tight. Drill a small pilot hole at your starting and ending points and place your tack in the starting hole. Take the end of your twisted wire and place it beneath the tack. I place a small amount of super glue on top of and under the wire for safe measure, and then pressed the tack down on top of the wire and maintain pressure until the glue is dry. Then carefully began wrapping the wire around the grip. Go slow. Try to keep the wraps as tight to each other as possible. Place a small amount of glue every inch and a half or so (this is why I left this portion unpainted). Once you get to the end, repeat your beginning process by placing glue and pressing a tack down to secure it. Voila! Authentic medieval grip (with some modern chemical assistance)!